KALPI

KALPRIYANAGARI

Kalpriyanagari

An ancient Indian City

Beyond dreams

Idol at Satmathia.

After spending four years in Reserve Bank of India, Kanpur office I was feeling exhausted and was looking for new places around Kanpur for a weekend destination. I found many but Kalpriyanagari or Kalpi, 75 km from Kanpur situated in the hinterland of Uttar Pradesh changed my life forever. Kalpi is 2007 years old and in ancient time was known as Kalpriyanagari. Ancient Kalpriyanagari was the birthplace of Ved Vyas, Uddalak, Valmiki Parasar, Birbal and other luminaries. Shri Vyas, the creator of Mahabharata epic lived, meditated and wrote here on the banks of Yamuna. The city is said to be protected by Brahma, Vishnu and Maheswar, the three chief Hindu deities. Lord Krishna's son Shamb erected a huge Sun Temple in the name of Kalopriyonath here that is lying unexcavated under a Muslim village named Gulloli. However some silakhands at the ghat (embankment) of the sun temple, locally known as Suryaghat or Sooraghat can still be seen. After conquering Kalpi , Mehmood Khan Lodhi killed Srichand and burried his head underneath `Shree Darwaza’ a huge gate still present in Kalpi. His seven queens burned themselves at the pyre (sati) in the Kalpriyonath sun temple and in whose memory, seven small temples or `mathi’s  or Satmathia were build there. Story goes that wailing by queens of Srichand can sometimes be heard at Satmathia. Suryaghat and Satmathia are inside dense ravine jungles and very difficult to access by land but if one sail downstream Yamuna river it will be one hour boat ride. But one needs an expert oarsman as Yamuna is deceptively calm here. The dome of 84 Gumbad could never be erected as Jinn (Spirit) will not tolerate it so as to allow unnamed Lodi Sultan and his Mumtaj to have a better sky view from their grave. Locals say that same Jinn built more than 50 tombs of seven to ten story heights in the Muslim graveyard in one night and most of them are still available although in extreme neglected shape. The British cemetery reminds that Kalpi was part of Bundelkhand agency. One must visit the room where Laxmi Bai, Tantiya Tope and all conspired against Britishers in Kalpi Fort. The existing room wall of Kalpi fort that served as treasury of Laxmi Bai for some period is 14 feet thick. Lanka meenar is another fantasy of an advocate. A 225 feet tower was made so that villagers can get a better view of India. The minaret is broken due a recent earthquake. To reach to the top of the tower one has to take seven circles through the stairs. So one note of caution is that brother and sister together shall not climb together otherwise they will be ‘Sat pake bandha’ or married as per hindu rites. Lovers are welcome. The town also has many more interesting places by name (Please refer explore page of http://www.kalpriyanagari.com/ ). A bite of Gabadde ki Halwa and a piece of hand made paper, as souvenir is must. Gabadde ki halwa is prepared by boiling milk and samnat, a house made recipe of wheat and sugar in wooden fire for 14 hours. One may very well confuse the paper as leather sheet when dried in the sun. Also there is a well in the graveyard. The well water is miracle water and if taken continuously for forty days all diseases will be healed forever. Kalpi also has a reserved forest. The vegetation has been classified as ravine thorn forest. Ravine thorn forest consists of small thorny trees. In some parts of the forest Babul Savanna vegetation also found. Herbivores like Nilgai, Chausingha and carnivores like wolf, wild dog, hyena, jungle cats are available in the forest. Kalpi do not have any hotel but one can stay in any of the temples or Mazars.  Barasthan, an abode of Sadhus offered me a free stay once. The sadhu who owns Barasthan lives a very simple life with many other subordinate sadhus, 200 acres of land, a few cows, 8 dogs, monkeys and their God. But the most memorable thing that was served here was bajra roti of 18” diameter and plain dal that even my mother or wife can not cook. The beauty of Yamuna from Barasthan is awesome. One of the many maszids, Khanka Shareef is worth mentioning as lunatics are chained here round the clock so the almighty will take care of them. No pun intended. White magic, black magic, blue magic all around.  Also worth mentioning is Vyas Temple which was built by Shri Sudhindra Tithha Swamiji and his disciples on the lap of Yamuna. A stone of tretayug that floats on water and ten lakh years old is kept at Vyas tila. Last time while returning Khanka, my Muslim guide told me, “If one home is built at kalpi another is home is destroyed”. Want to build one?  Incidentally this is the place wherefrom total solar eclipse on 24^th October 1995 was witnessed by scientists from all over India owing to excellent observation conditions. And many years before Varahamihir, astrologer & astronomer of king Vikranaditya’s court took his observation from Kalpriyonath sun temple. Coincidence indeed! The historical town located on the right bank of  Yamuna, surrounded by behad (Mound of mud 40-80 feet height) and jungle on eastern side and dotted with numerous temples and tombs will be a perfect ravine retreat. Kalpi in recent past was also famous for Phoolan Devi and other dacoits. Also in 1856 the population of  Kalpi was 1,00,000 and after first war of Independence the population was mere 900 in 1858. So much for our country. I met with some of the warmest people here that I had the opportunity to interact. The Britishers failed but Government of India is ensuring that Kalpi becomes a lost city. You need two to five days to explore Kalpi. And the journey was memorable; indeed memorable.